Atlantic Puffins

It’s day three in Newfoundland and the drive down Highway 100 from Placentia to Cape St. Mary’s offered some of the most incredible coastal views ever, maybe even better than those of the California coast. On the approach road to the preserve we saw three Northern Harriers popping up and down along the cliff edges. Arriving at the visitor center and lighthouse we immediately knew that this was going to be a top ten lifetime destination. This must be what Ireland looks like with the thick green grass, grazing sheep and the sheer rock cliffs that drop several hundred feet into the ocean. It feels like we have died and gone to heaven and as a bonus there are Horned Larks and American Pipits on our walk to the nesting site.

Standing at the edge of the cliff and looking out over Bird Rock it is unbelievable how many seabirds there are, both young and adults on the nests and hundreds of others flying over the rocks or just sitting on the water. Very conservative counting puts the number of Northern gannets at around 20,000, Common Murre  2,000 and Black-legged Kittiwake at well over 1,000. It was just a beautiful clear day at the Cape and this world renowned birding and nesting site.

Back in St. John’s, even after the active day, we were both in the mood for partying and since the heart of the action is just outside our hotel grounds, why wouldn’t we be? Our first stop was across the street at the Adelaide Oyster House where we enjoyed a glass of wine and fresh oysters from three Canadian Provinces – Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick.  A few blocks down Water Street is the Shamrock City Pub and this is where we become honorary Newfoundlanders by taking part in a Screech-in. To start the ceremony the barmaid asks us “Are Ye a Screecher?” and we respond “Deed I is me old cock! And long may your big jib draw!” After that we seal the deal with shots of Screecher Rum and a kiss on the lips of a real cod fish.  This is a really fun country and we are having the best time ever!

The weather has been just perfect, sunny and in the upper 70’s and low 80’s each day. We brought warm clothes not knowing what to expect, but it’s been shorts and t-shirts every day which is very unusual here, even for August, so the locals tell us. In the morning we drove south to Bay Bulls where we had reservations on the boat at O’Brien’s Whale and Bird tour. Another gorgeous day as we headed out to sea with a full boat load for a tour of the Witless Bay Islands Park Reserve.  These islands are home to North America’s largest Atlantic Puffin colony and the world’s second largest Leach’s Storm-Petrel colony. The Puffins build their nests in holes dug into the steep grassy hillsides. Because they do not fly all that well and their take off is even worse, the angle of the hillside allows them to jump off to start their flight. There are probably more than 5,000 Atlantic Puffins on these islands along with several thousand Common Murre, many Black-backed and Herring Gulls. Presiding over this mass of seabirds was one very well fed Bald Eagle. Out on the water in the Reserve we spotted Razorbills and a couple of Black Guillemot. We had a really good time on the boat trip and highly recommend this tour for anyone, not only bird lovers.

Back on shore we drove north on the coast road and arrived at picturesque Petty Harbour where we picked up delicious fried cod for lunch at Chafe’s Landing (circa 1878). We ate our fish while sitting atop the cliff at the harbor entrance with a panoramic view of the great North Atlantic Ocean to our east. This type of setting, on a gorgeous sunny day is exactly why we came here and it is going make it difficult to leave. After lunch, back in St. John’s we drove to the top of Signal Hill, a National historic site overlooking the city and the entrance to St. John’s Harbor. The views from there, almost 500 feet above the ocean, are amazing as well. This is our last full day in Newfoundland and what a fantastic day we’ve had.  In the room we make plans to get up early to squeeze in a few hours of birding before heading to the airport.

First stop in the morning was Kenny’s Pond, where our bird guide Alvan Buckley had recently seen several Tufted Ducks, a life bird for us. There is a trail all the way around the Pond, but after walking just a short distance there are the target birds swimming not too far out and we can ID them clearly using  our bins. Just a short drive away is our final birding stop of the trip, Logy Bay. We hiked along the East Coast Trail to Red Cliff Radar Station and along the path we saw Black-capped Chickadees, Dark-eyed Juncos and a beautiful Red Crossbill perched atop a pine tree.

 

Wish we had more time for birding, but after getting our last look out over the cliffs and down the coastline we reluctantly headed back to the car for the ride to the airport. We met a lot of really nice people and made so many memories over the last few days that both of us agree this has been one of our favorite trips, not only for the year, but in our lifetime of travels.  We will surely come back to Newfoundland someday. There is so much more to see here and in 4 days we have barely scratched the surface of this immense and scenic island province.

 

Here’s a link to Part One of our Newfoundland Trip: Newfoundland – Part One

Next up: Southeast Arizona – Third Time’s a Charm

Trip : Total Species: 62   Year Birds: 14   Life Birds: 7 (Note: These birds do not count for our Lower 48 big year)

2015 : Year Birds: 402   Life Birds: 44 

Here’s the list: 2015 Bird List